In my studies of land in the region over the past several years, I’ve noticed archeological studies, conservation organizations, and others in the area reference “The French Broad” by Wilma Dykeman. Originally written in 1955, it describes the history of our mountain lands along the French Broad from the Transylvania headwaters through Henderson, Buncombe, Haywood, and Madison counties and into Tennessee.

[pullquote]“For it is a rare region, this country of the French Broad that boasts so much variety of beauty and species and experience.” -Wilma Dykeman[/pullquote]

The book covers a variety of topics in easy-to-read chapters that focus on specific areas, people, and historic events.  These stories start with some information about the original Cherokee inhabitants, but the primary focus is on historical people and events from the late 1700s until the early 1900s.

She describes how drovers, loggers, farmers, miners, and others shaped development and the landscape we know. There are lesser-known stories such as how the Mountain Lily became the first and only river steamboat on the French Broad, how the project came to be, and how it ended shortly thereafter. There are fascinating chapters that provide details on commonly told local stories from the naming of Mount Mitchell, Biltmore Village artisans, and the Shelton Laurel Massacre. All of which I found to be extremely informative as they filled in many of the details and provided background and personal stories that I was not previously aware of.

That story-telling focusing on people and Appalachian culture allows readers to understand more about the people who settled the area and fueled the economy. She captured fascinating accounts of the standoff between Sheriff Bailey and Madison County moonshiners during prohibition and the midwife, Granny McNabb, who delivered hundreds of babies across the most remote parts of the region. These stories and dozens of others help the reader understand more about the region’s people and why agriculture, their sense of self-reliance, and distrust of outsiders developed over the years.

One common theme in the book was a concern about environmental issues. Her chapter, “Who Killed the French Broad?” pointed out how pollution, greed, lack of stewardship, and ignorance led to rivers that were so polluted they experienced mass extinctions of fish, water blackened by pollution, and were heavily contaminated with raw sewage.  Her work published in this book and elsewhere led to the eventual clean-up and protection of the river. A legacy that continues through the work of the non-profit organization River Link.

As a non-native who grew up further north in the central Appalachians, I found this to be an exceptional resource in understanding local history. In my opinion, it’s a must-read for those not intimately familiar with local history or for any prospective landowner in the area. As a land broker assisting clients who in some cases have owned lands mentioned in the book for generations, it also reminds me of the responsibility I have to honor and respect the region’s heritage and land.

If you’re looking for a professional land broker with regional expertise, let me know! Pat Snyder, psnyder@nationalland.com, www.nationalland.com